| Peter Jennings FRPSL, FRGS, spent a busy and
enjoyable 48 hours in Iceland during mid-November 2006. In
Reykjavik, Europe’s most northerly capital, he interviewed stamp
dealer Bolli Davidsson in the Stamp House that he opened in 1960
‘Welcome to Iceland the home of Icelandair’.
That was the friendly announcement that greeted passengers as fl
ight 451 from London Heathrow touched down at Kefl avik
International Airport situated about 50km from Reykjavik, venue
for the 1986 summit between President Ronald Reagan of the USA
and Mikhail Gorbachev of the then Soviet Union.
A few minutes earlier I had had my first
glimpse of the vast, mainly uninhabited snowcovered landscape of
Iceland, and geologically Europe’s youngest country, from the
window of the Boeing 757-300 as it fl ew across the coastline in
the darkness of a mid-November afternoon. At the time I was in
transit by way of Reykjavik to Boston, USA, where I was working
on a non-stamp related project.
Iceland
Iceland is the 16th largest island in the
world. Only Madagascar, Great Britain and Cuba are larger single
independent states. About 10 per cent of the country is covered
in glaciers, including Vatnajökull, the largest in Europe.
Icelandair
I had never considered flying to North America
via Iceland until a stamp collector friend of mine, Chris Bates,
suggested that I contact his son Rob Bates, PR Manager UK &
Ireland, Icelandair. Rob explained that Icelandair now offers up
to 21 fl ights each week from the UK to Iceland and that fl
ights operated from Heathrow, Glasgow and Manchester (website:
www.icelandair.co.uk). On my way home from Boston I spent a most
enjoyable 48 hours in Iceland researching and taking pictures to
go with this article. Mr Bates kindly facilitated my visit to
Iceland on behalf of GSM and arranged a business class ticket
for all sections of the journey courtesy of Icelandair. I am
pleased to record that all my fl ights arrived on schedule and
that the attendants were friendly, effi cient and helpful. My
overnight fl ight 630 from Boston arrived 6.20 a.m., slightly
ahead of schedule. I changed some money into Icelandic Krona—
Iceland is not in Euro-land. It was -10 degrees when I left the
terminal building—according to a local meteorologist the weather
was abnormally cold for mid-November.
Population
Iceland is an island—distance to: Greenland
287 km, Scotland: 798 km, Norway: 970km, Faroe Islands 420 km.
Despite its mid-Atlantic location, Iceland observes Greenwich
Mean Time throughout the year. Out of a population numbering
more than 300,000 people, two thirds live in the capital,
Reykjavik, and its neighbouring towns. The highland interior is
uninhabited and uninhabitable. About 11 per cent of the country
is covered in glaciers, including Vatnajökull, an icecap
consisting of many glaciers. There are no railways in Iceland.
The life expectancy for women is 82.8 years and 78.9 for men,
the second longest in the world.
Destinations
Icelandair celebrates its 70th anniversary
during 2007 and is proud of its position as one of the world’s
longest established airlines. It began in 1937 with the
formation of a little airline in the north of Iceland, which
three years later turned into Flugfélag Íslands or Icelandair.
In 1945 the airline made its fi rst international fl ights to
Scotland and Denmark. A year earlier another airline,
Loftleiðir, was founded, which became known as Icelandic
Airlines. In 1947 this airline began international fl ights and
in 1953 commenced its pioneering low-fare service across the
North Atlantic. In 1973 these two airlines merged to form
Icelandair. Today, Icelandair fl ies to 21 international
destinations, including six in North America and 15 in Europe,
with Kefl avik International Airport as the nerve-centre of the
operation. The Fly Bus from Kefl avik International Airport to
Reykjavik, situated in the southwest of Iceland, is linked to fl
ight arrivals and drops off and picks up at all the major hotels
by request. The bus made two or three stops during the 45-minute
journey via the BSI Bus Terminal to the Nordica, a comfortable
four-star modern hotel owned by Icelandair Hotels situated close
to the city centre. I had a superb panoramic view of Reykjavik
looking out over the harbour from my room situated on the sixth
fl oor during my twonight stay. It was dark when I arrived and
did not get light until about 9.45 a.m.
Solstice
The Winter Solstice, 21 December, is the
shortest day of the year when the sun does not rise above the
horizon until 11.22 a.m. and disappears at 3.30 p.m. giving just
over four hours of daylight. The Summer Solstice 21 June is the
longest day of the year when the sun rises at 2.54 a.m. and
doesn’t set again until just after midnight the following day.
My fi rst appointment was with María Reynisdóttir, Assistant
Project Manager for Tourism, at the Reykjavik Tourist
Information Centre, situated at Aðalstraeti 2, (website www.
visitreykjavik.is). María, who studied tourism at the University
of Surrey in Guildford, answered my questions about Iceland
before taking me on a two-hour walking tour of central
Reykjavik. First stop was the harbour.
Fishing
Reykjavik Harbour is an important landing
point for the trawlers catching cod and many other types of fi
sh in the North Atlantic. The majority of Iceland’s GDP comes
from fi shing, that provides more than half of the country’s
export income but employs less than fi ve per cent of the
workforce. The travel industry is the second largest income
gener ator. Banking and IT are now the fastest growing sectors
in the Icelandic economy. Photo: Peter Jennings FRPSL, FRGS
Catholic Cathedral
The Church and State are not separated in
Iceland. About 86 per cent of the population belong to the
National Lutheran Church of Iceland. The Roman Catholic Diocese
of Reykjavik serves the whole country and now has a membership
of nearly three per cent of the population.
Next María took me to visit the Cathedral of
Christ The King, consecrated in July 1929. Inside the main
entrance is a statue of St Thorlakur 1133–93, whose relics were
enshrined in his cathedral at Skálholt on 20 July 1198. He was
declared the Patron Saint of Iceland by Pope John Paul II in
January 1984. The statue was blessed on 20 January 1995.
Viking age
Next María took me to see the recently opened
Settlement Exhibition. The highlight of this spectacular
exhibition is the archaeological remains discovered and
excavated in 2001 during construction work to build a new luxury
hotel in central Reykjavik. The remains turned out to be the
oldest relics of human habitation in Iceland, from around AD
871. The fi nds included a hall or longhouse, which is now
preserved in its original location as the focal point of the
exhibition about life in Viking-Age Reykjavik. The construction
of Viking-Age buildings is clearly explained using multimedia
technology (website www. reykjavik871.is).
María showed me the outside of the Parliament
House. Iceland was under Danish rule from 1380 until 1944, when
the Icelandic Republic was established with a parliamentary
democracy. Iceland has been a member of EFTA since 1970, but has
never applied for membership of the European Union. Next we went
to the nearby City Hall to look at a magnifi cent map in relief
of Iceland, on display in a large room situated near the
entrance hall. María pointed out places of interest throughout
the country and explained their signifi cance to Iceland today.
Stamp House
At the end of the tour María took me to a
stamp shop that she told me she had walked past a thousand times
but never been in. I persuaded her to come into the shop with me
and there we met Mr Bolli Davidsson, now aged 73, a member of
the PTS from 1970 until 1998, at the Stamp House that he opened
in 1960 (email: frimex@simnet.is). I mentioned that I was
researching an art icle ‘Iceland and its Stamps’ for Gibbons
Stamps Monthly. Mr Davidsson replied that he had read some of my
articles in the magazine and was delighted to welcome María and
me to his stamp shop. Looking at the early Icelandic stamps
displayed under the glass counter I decided to add two lovely
unmounted mint sets to my collection—the 1934 Air (SG 208/13)
because of my interest in Pioneer Airmails and stamps issued in
1938 depicting the ‘Great Geyser’ because I had the opportunity
to see the geyser the following day (226/33).
Asked which country was the best market for
the early stamp issues of Iceland, Mr Davidsson replied without
hesitation:
‘Germany and Sweden, for both modern and old
stamps of Iceland.’
‘Are the modern stamp issues of Iceland
popular with collectors and what is the most popular theme
depicted on the stamps?’, I asked.
‘This is a diffi cult question to answer. They
are not as popular as they used to be. Also, these days, people
rarely receive a letter with actual stamps stuck on the
envelope. Birds, without a doubt, is the most popular theme on
our stamps.
‘I would like to recommend two books in
English: Exploring Iceland through its Stamps, and Walking into
Iceland’s Postal History, both by Don Brandt, an American who
has been living in Iceland for 25 years.’ ‘Is stamp collecting a
popular hobby in Iceland?’, I wanted to know. ‘Yes, I’m pleased
to say that stamp collecting is still a popular hobby in
Iceland, as in all the Nordic countries’—Norway, Sweden,
Finland, Denmark, and the Faroe Islands. Before I left the stamp
shop, Mr Davidsson generously presented me with a copy of a
beautifully produced and profusely illustrated book: One Hundred
Years of Icelandic Stamps, by Jón Aðalsteinn Jónsson, published
in English by the Post and Telecommunications Administration,
Reykjavik, in 1977. This marvelous book has been of a great help
to me while researching this article. The illustration of
Iceland SG 1 has been scanned from this book, which I thoroughly
recommend as an important addition to general philatelic
libraries worldwide.
Post van
Quite by chance, a postman was parking a post
van outside the Stamp House just as we emerged into the cold. It
was a great opportunity for a picture. We walked back to the
tourist offi ce where I thanked María for a fascinating tour and
went to one of the many delightful coffee houses for an hour or
so to get warm and gather my thoughts and impressions and make
some notes about Iceland and its postage stamps.
First issue
Iceland issued its fi rst postage stamps on 1
January 1873. The design was the same as for the Danish numeral
issue of the time (numeral of value surmounted by a crown, all
inside an oval), denominated with values ranging from 2 to 16
skilling, and inscribed ‘ÍSLAND’ (SG 1/7).
Iceland’s fi rst commemorative stamps were
issued in 1911 and honour Jón Sigurðsson on the centenary of his
birth in 1811 (96/101). King Christian X of Denmark fi rst
appeared on Icelandic stamps in a new set issued between 1920
and 1922 (116/93). Periodic stamp shortages plagued the postal
service during the 1920s, and locally surcharged stamps were
produced in 1921, 1922, 1924, 1925, 1926, 1929, and 1930. The fi
rst pictorial, non-portrait stamps were issued in 1925, a set of
fi ve showing views of Iceland (151/5).
Airmail stamps
Iceland’s fi rst airmail stamps were issued in
1928 and 1929—regular 10a. and 50a. stamps overprinted with a
rather crude outline of an aeroplane (156/7). In 1930, Iceland
celebrated the 1000th anniversary of the Althing with an
attractive series of 15 regular and fi ve airmail stamps
featuring a wide variety of historical, mythological, and scenic
images (174/8). In May 1931, stamps were overprinted ‘Zeppelin
1931’, for use on mail sent via the airship Graf Zeppelin, which
visited Reykjavik on 1 July. The zeppelin did not actually land,
there being no facilities, but it got low enough to pass mail
bags up and down (179/81). Also in 1931, a new issue came out
epicting the Gullfoss waterfall (195/200). In 1938 a dramatic
series featured images of Geysir, the namesake of all other
geysers. Iceland again honoured Jón Sigurðsson on its issue
marking the Proclamation of the Independent Republic established
on 17 June 1944 (265/70), and again on the 150th anniversary of
his birth on 17 June 1961 in a set to mark the 50th anniversary
of the University of Iceland (388/90). A dramatic set of stamps
showing Mt Hekla in Eruption was issued in 1948 (280/6). The
eruption of Surtsey Island was marked by another set of images
in 1965 (423/5). Since Independence, Iceland has pursued a
relatively restrained stamp-issuing policy that includes annual
Christmas and Europa issues. Many of the stamps depict local
scenery, fl ora, and fauna, as well as heritage and the works of
local artists.
Iceland Post
Iceland Post recently described its stamps as
follows on one of its web-pages: ‘The Icelandic stamp collection
can conveniently be divided into two main categories: The
Kingdom (Iceland under the Danish Crown) and the Republic.
Iceland started issuing its own stamps as early as 1873 while
the country was still a Danish posession. It gained independence
and became a republic in 1944. ‘In the Republic era motifs on
Icelandic stamps have focused mainly on Icelandic cultural
heritage and the country’s nature, richly diverse in its
multiple aspects of ice and fi re. The amazing variety of the
country’s fl ora and fauna, thriving in an arctic climate
tempered by the Gulf Stream, has been the main theme of
Icelandic stamps during the last two decades. These stamps are
usually printed using the fi nest techniques available and the
collector will fi nd a wide variety of engraved, gravure or
offset-printed stamps in the Republic collection.’
The two 2006 Christmas stamps 55k. and 75k.
glow in the dark (1152/3). The stamps, issued on 2 November
2006, were printed by Joh Enschedé of the Netherlands in sheets
of ten with conventional gum. The 55k. stamp was also produced
as a self-adhesive (1154) in booklets of ten.
British Ambassador
I then walked to the Residence of the British
Ambassador to Iceland, HE Alp Mehmet, which is situated next to
the British Embassy itself. We had a wide-ranging conversation
over tea about Iceland and in particular the government’s
decision to go back to commercial whaling announced on 16
October 2006. In past years there was an abundance of whales in
the seas off the coasts of Iceland and they were hunted, killed
and eaten for food. In 1948 this developed into a commercial
whaling industry which continued until 1989, when whaling
ceased.
Mr Mehmet told me that on 1 November 2006
whaling resumed, and he led a delegation of 25 ambassadors from
anti-whaling nations to deliver a ‘strongly worded’ letter to
the country’s Foreign Affairs Ministry, urging a reversal of the
decision to allow whaling in Icelandic waters.
Whale watching is one of Iceland’s main
tourist attractions and between April and September tours leave
Reykjavik Harbour up to three times a day out into Faxafoi Bay.
Not surprisingly, tourist bookings fell 25 per cent in the two
weeks following the resumption of whaling. Seven fi n whales,
worth about £95,000 each, had already been killed by the time of
my visit to the Ambassador on 14 November.
Hopefully, the government of Iceland will take
the opportunity presented by the impending general election in
May 2007 to announce a new and strict ban on all commercial
whaling. Iceland is a wonderful destination for tourists, but
potential visitors who want to watch the whales will be put off
when they see newspaper pictures like that in The Times of 2
November 2006, showing an endangered species being cut up for
meat—which, incidentally, the majority of Icelanders do not eat.
Geysers
The following day, Wednesday 15 November, I
went on an afternoon tour (courtesy of Reykjavik Excursions) in
a mini-bus together with 11 other visitors from a variety of
countries, to see the world-famous Geyser (Geysir in Icelandic)
geothermal fi eld where the spouting springs are seen.
Unfortunately, the gush of the biggest and most impressive
geyser in the world (the one on the stamps of 1938–47), that
used to shoot up to 70 metres in the air, now does little more
than gurgle. It was extremely cold. In fact so cold that after
less than 15 minutes I quickly made my way to the nearby Geysir
Museum where there is an informative multimedia exhibition that
vividly shows the power of these forces of nature. Situated on
the mid-Atlantic Ridge, Iceland is a hot spot of volcanic and
geothermal activity. 30 postglacial volcanoes have erupted in
the past two centuries, and natural hot water supplies much of
the population with cheap, pollution-free heating. Rivers, too,
are harnessed to provide inexpensive hydroelectric power. On the
way back to Reykjavik we stopped briefl y at Gullfoss, one of
the most magnifi cent waterfalls in Iceland.
Beautifully designed
In order to illustrate this article I visited
the Stanley Gibbons shop at 399 Strand on 14 December 2006, a
month after I arrived in Reykjavik, in order to purchase the
Icelandic stamps I had selected from the Stamps of the World
Catalogue. It was fun but, unfortunately, some of the early
issues were out of stock and others were in low supply. Since
1873 Iceland has issued many extremely beautiful and well
produced stamps. I thoroughly recommend and commend Iceland as a
place to visit and to collect. Find out more about Iceland at
www.visiticeland.com and www.visitreykjavik.is
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